Sewing machine with feed mechanism for shirring material at will while stitching



June 21, 1955 .1. 'r. JULLIE 2,711,144

SEWING MACHINE WITH FEED MECHANISM FOR SHIRRING MATERIAL AT WILL WHILESTITCHING File d Dec. 7, 1953 3 Sheets-Sheet llll All RE! 1 Q @J m m MY/ a M M y.

June 21, 1955 MATERIAL AT WILL- WHILE STITCHING Filed Dec. 7, 1953 J. T.JULLIE SEWING MACHINE WITH FEED MECHANISM FOR SHIRRING Sheets-Sheet 2 28n 9 "I m 1 D4 9 g w |I 25 I /3 3 I I G 266 L 22 V; 2! 4 f I I V I,

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- 2,711,144 MEC ISM FOR SHIRRING June 21, 1955 J. 'r. JULLI SEWINGMACHINE WITH FEED MATERIAL AT WILL WHILE STITCHING a She e'ts-Sheet 5Filed Dec. 7, 1953 jzvzmawe Jase-1w 7," J01. L

jms xw Arfamzrr Patented June 21, 1955 SEWING MACHINE WITH FEED hIECHANISM FOR SHIRRENG l't IATERIAL AT WILL VtHILE STITCHING a Ciaims.c1. 1n-ze9 This invention relates to sewing machines which are adaptedto stitch and which, under certain conditions, such as re-setting ofcams in the material-feeding mechanism, may be adjusted to shirrmaterial as it is being stitched.

While my invention is particularly applicable to certain types of sewingmachines for trimming and overedging in one operation as manufactured bythe Singer Manufacturing Company of Elizabeth, New Jersey, it is alsoapplicable to other sewing machines which utilize for the feeding ofmaterial during stitching, a pair of gyratory generally horizontal feedbars provided with cooperating upstanding feed dogs for progressivelyfeeding the material pressed thereagainst during stitching operations.

It is an object of my present invention to provide a comparativelysimple but highly efficient mechanism, in sewing machines of the classdefined, for instantly producing upon the said mechanism of the machinea shirring action of the material during stitching operations, and forcontrolling the shifting of the mechanism to shirr at will and to theextent desired.

Another object is the provision of mechanism in the form of anattachment for standard sewing machines of the type manufactured by TheSinger Manufacturing Com pany for trimming and over-edging in oneoperation, which will controllably vary the longitudinal stroke of thegyratory feed bars of the machine from the normal similar longitudinaldisplacement of the forward and rear feed dogs whereby, subject toinstant control by an operator and without discontinuing the stitchingoperation, material for a desired length may be shirred or pleated and,subsequent to such operation, may again be conventionally J stitched orsewn without shirring etfect.

More specifically, it is on object, in a machine of the class describedemploying feed-bars gyrated by a pair of eccentric pitrnans, toindirectly and differentially impart to one of the feed-bars thelongitudinal stroke from its related pitman so that, through instantcontrol, the longitudinal movement of the feed-bars and their upstandingdogs may be varied from normal equal strokes to an unequal strokerelationship where the front feed-dog moves a slightly greater distancethan the rear fced-dog, producing upon the material then engaged afolding or shirring elfect.

One embodiment of my invention in the form of an attachment for standardSinger sewing machines of the type adapted for trimmingand over-edgingin one operation may be constructed successfully by mere replacement oftwo of the important parts of the front and back feedbar assembly of theSinger machine and by addition of a few parts.

The foregoing and other objects and advantages of my invention will morefully appear from the following description made in connection with theaccompanying drawings wherein like reference characters refer to thesame figures throughout the several views and in which:

Fig. 1 is a rear elevation with some portions broken away of aconventional type of sewing machine having an embodiment of my inventionapplied thereto;

Fig. 2 is a left side elevation of the same machine with some portionsbroken away;

Fig. 3 is a horizontal section taken substantially along the line 33 ofFig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 2 taken on a larger scale with portionsof the machine broken away and removed but showing the feed-bar assemblywith my improved structure applied thereto;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary view similar to Fig. 4 restricted to thefeed-bar assembly per so, with my improvements thereon and showinganother step in the cycle of operation of said mechanism;

Fig. 2 is a plan view showing a portion of the work where two pieces offabric are sewed together with overedge stitching and where a portion ofthe edge is shirred as produced by my novel mechanism; and

Fig. 7 is an exploded view of the adjustable linkage dissociated fromthe rest of the machine.

In the embodiment illustrated, my invention or improvement is applied tothe right and left feed-bar assembly of a standard sewing machine fortrimming and over edging in one operation, manufactured by The SingerManufacturing Company as models 246-3 and 2465. The conventionalmechanism of this machine includes a main frame and housing H, clothplate X, a left end pedestal and frame structure L, a driven pulley P atthe right end of the machine, a drive belt B and the usual crank shaft Cextending longitudinally across the front portion of the machine foractuating a number of the working mechanisms including the right handand left hand loopers RL and LL respectively and the needle drivingshaft assembly which synchronizes and operates the needle N.

'lhe left end portion of crank shaft C is provided with the usualeccentric cylinder or disc E for lifting and operating the conventionalfeed and knife levers. Outwardly beyond eccentric E, crank shaft C isprovided with another eccentric disc portion D eccentrically related tothe axis of shaft C to provide relatively small throw as contrasted tothe eccentric E. The conventional feed-bar-slide-block (front) S isjournaled on portion D of the crank shaft and slides in bifurcated,forward portions 8a and 7a respectively of the feed-bars 8 and 7.Feed-bars 7 and 8 are of conventional structure disposed in side-by-siderelation substantially normal to the axis of crank shaft C and the inneror right hand gyratory bar 8 being somewhat longer, as shown, than theouter or left hand gyratory feed-bar 7. A pivoted, rearfeed-bar-slide-block 9 slidably engages the bifurcated rear ends of thefeed-bars 7 and 8, said slideblock swinging to permit of the gyratorymovement of the two bars and to permit relative shifting of the bars inthe working strokes thereof. The outer or left hand feed-bar 7 isactuated in conventional manner by a short pitman link 10, the forwardand rounded portion 10a of said pitman being journaled upon a removabledisc 11, constituting an eccentric cam of predetermined throw keyed fora predetermined aflixation to the concentric outer or left end of crankshaft C. Camming discs of various pitch or throw are conventionallyprovided with the particular sewing machine models referred to here andare numbered in accordance to the throw. As shown and merely asexemplary, a Singer No. 14 cam (11) was utilized for gyration of pitman10, while a Singer cam disc No. 7 is utilized, as shown herein, afiixedto crank shaft portion Z inwardly and in juxtaposition to cam 11 andherein identified by the numeral 12, said cam actuating a revised andelongated pitman link 13 disposed inwardly and in side-by-side relationto the short pitman link 10 for effecting the resultant gyration of theinner or right feed-bar 8. The left extremity of crank shaft C isdiminished and threaded -.3 to receive a heavy retaining nut 14 whichholds the two pitman links and 13 as well as the forward ends of thefeed-bars in operative position journaled upon their cooperatingeccentric portions of the crank shaft.

The revised and elongated pitman link 13 of my invention is providedwith an enlarged, elongated and "longitudinal slot 13a which is of awidth to accommodate a conventional connector pin 15 having its innerand reduced threaded end afiixed to a tapped socket in the middle of theouter or left hand feed-bar 7, said pin having the usual spacer sleeve15a journaled thereon and being retained in working position in a boreformed in the short pitman link 10, by a retaining nut 15b.

The resultant gyration and effective stroke of the inner or right handfeed-bar 8 is effected by a shiftable, stroketransmitting link indicatedas an entirety by the numeral 16 having a forward section 16a providedwith a tongue portion pivotally connected by a laterally extendingconnector bolt 17 and spacer sleeve element 17a with the intermediateand depending portion of the inward or right hand feed-bar 8, saidconnector element being similarly formed to the connector pin 15 andretained in operative position perpendicularly to tongue section 16:1 bya retaining nut 17b threaded upon the outer extremity of pin 17. Theconnector element 17 is accommodated in the longitudinal slot 13a of therevised and longer pitman link 13 and shifts slightly in said slot incycles of the gyratory movement of pitman link 13.

The rear end of the revised and elongated pitman link 13 is pivotallyconnected by a countersunk connector pin 18 with an oscillatory togglearm 19, the rear end of which is pivoted by a headed pivot screw 19a tothe intermediate portion of an upstanding oscillatory mounting bracket20 provided by my improved structure and suitably pivoted at its upperend at the left side and rear portion of the frame section and pedestalL. As shown, the upper end of mounting bracket 20 is journalled upon theheavy hinge pin 21 upon which the feed-bar-slide-block 9 is alsojournaled. The hinge pin 21 is mounted within an aperture provided inthe upwardly projecting pedestal portion 33 of the machine 7 frame,which pedestal portion 33 is laterally spaced from the main portion orhousing H of the machine frame. Mounting bracket 20, as shown, isvertically positioned and depends to a point some distance below thelower edges of the pitman links 10 and 13 and is provided with anupwardly extending, slightly rearwardly declined elongated slot 20a inwhich a shiftable transverse pivot pin 22 for the stroke-transmittinglink 16 is accommodated. The relation of the point of connection of thetoggle arm 19 eccentrically of the bracket pivot 21 and thepositioningof elongated slot 20a is important in the proper functioningof my mechanism. To this end, it is desirable that pivot screw 19a bedisposed a short distance downwardly and forwardly of the hinge pin 21forming the journal for mounting bracket 20 and that the elongated slot20a in the bracket and the related length of stroke-transmitting link besuch that slot 201: approximates an are or line disposed substantiallyconcentric of the pivotal connection of link 16 at its forward end withright hand feed-bar 8 through connector pin 17.

The form of my stroke-transmitting link 16, as illustrated, comprises aforward section 16a having a longitudinal tapped socket 1611 through therear portion thereof and a rear section 16c of clevis-shape forembracing the sides of mounting bracket 20, pivot pin 22 extendingthrough the two sides of said clevis-link section and, as shown, havinga diminished threaded extremity 22.: which is threaded and removablysecured in the inner side portion of the clevis. The clevis section 160of my stroke-transmitting link with the pivot 22 is free to ride orshift up and down upon mounting bracket 20 to vary the length of thestroke imparted to right feed-bar S. An adjustable screw 23 rigidlyinterconnects opposed ends of stroke-transmitting link sections 1611 and16c, having a squared intermediate portion for Wrench engagement andhaving end portions threaded in opposite directions and threadedlyreceived in the tapped socket 16b of toggle section 16a and in a tappedsocket of toggle section 16c, locking nuts 24 being provided to lockscrew 23 in a desired adjusted position.

A longitudinal shank extension 16e is integrally formed or rigidlyaffixed to the rear end of stroke-transmitting link section 15c forsuitable connection with a vertical, instantly controllable shift rod25. Shift rod 25, as shown, has its lower end bent outwardly atapproximately to provide a connector pin 25a of circular cross sectionupon which is journalled the horizontal sleeve 26a, of a T-shapeconnecting element 26, the head of the T-element 26 constituting asleeve 26b wherein the shank extension of the stroke-transmitting linkis slidably and loosely mounted.

The upstanding shift rod 25 has an intermediate head or piston 25])afiixed thereto which fits with working clearance within a verticalguide tube 27 rigidly secured as by a bracket 28 to the rear of thehousing H and, of course, in concentric relation with the shift rod 25.A coil spring 29 surrounds the intermediate portion of shift rod 25,within guide'tube 27 and is interposed between the head 25b and anabutment-block 27a atfixed to the lower end of tube 27 and axially boredfor slidably accommodating the shift rod 25. The upper portion of shiftrod 25 is externally threaded and projects through a restricted toppiece 27b at the upper end of tube 27 and threadedly engages anadjustable stroke-limiting nut 30 above the upper end of said tube.

Suitable means are provided for instantly pulling shift rod 25downwardly to its adjusted length of movement and, in the form shown,comprise a chain 31 or other flexible member connected at its upper endwith a depending hook 25c afiixed to the lower end of shift rod 25. Thelower end of chain 31, as shown in Fig. 4, is secured to the end of atreadle member 32.

It will be noted that there is no direct pivotal or toggle connectionbetween the elongated or revised pitman link 13 and its related righthand feed-bar 8. The toggle arm 19 is connected to effect theoscillation or reciprocation of the depending mounting bracket 20 which,in turn, communicates to right hand feed-bar 8, its stroke through theshiftable stroke-transmitting link 16. The longitudinal stroke of rightfeed-bar 8 therefore may be varied depending upon the shifting of therear pivot 22 of the transmitting link 16, a longer stroke beingimparted, of course, when the transmitting link-pivot is lowered and,consequently, disposed a-greater radial distance from the journal 21 ofthe mounting bracket 20.

Feed-bars 7 and 8 have fixedly but adjustably attached to the forwardand upper portions thereof, sets of upstanding material-engaging,conventional feed-dogs D-1 A and D-2 respectively. The front feed-dogsD-1 are attached to the inner or right feed-bar 8 and the rear feed-dogsD-Z are attached in conventional manner to the outer or left feed-bar 7,the operation of said dogs with the structure described and inconventional machines of the type defined being such that, in the cyclesof movement, the two sets of dogs 13-1 and D2 gyrate together upwardlyand longitudinally rearward through equal stroke or distances. Duringsuch operation, the cloth is, of course, held downwardly by aconventional pressure foot (not shown).

Operation For the most part, the operation of the entire sewing machineillustrated in the drawings is conventional, including the guiding ofthe several threads employed in stitching operations, the operation ofthe right and left loopers, the needle and the trimming operation.

Assuming that two edges of cloth are to be stitched together and that,in conformance with a desired lay-out, over-edge stitching is desiredthroughout with a certain portion of the stitching operation effectingshirring of the material, the operator, with the two pieces of clothproperly positioned over the sets of front and rear feed-dogs D1 and D2,applies a conventional pressure foot (not shown) to the top of thefabric and the usual stitching will be accomplished with the severalparts of the feeder mechanism disposed and related as shown in Fig. 2.

When the lay-out or pattern calls for shirring of the material, theoperator instantly pulls shift rod 25 to its limited downward movementthrough convenient means such as the treadle 32, thereby shifting theconnectorlink 16 to the position shown in Fig. 4. In this connection itwill be noted that the downward stroke of the shift rod 25 may beadjusted through threaded setting of the stroke-limiting nut 30 at theupper end of rod 25.

In the original and normal position of the various parts of mymechanism, as shown in Fig. 2 with the stroketransmitting link 16disposed in its upward position be tween the journal or pin 21 ofreciprocating bracket 20 and pivot screw 19a which connects theelongated pitman 13 with its toggle link 19, the right and left feedbars8 and 7 will be gyrated up and down by the eccentric cam portion D ofthe crank shaft and will be gyrated in rearward longitudinal movementthrough equal strokes. in this connection, it should be realized thatthe two eccentric cam discs 11 and 12 for the pitmans ill and 13 are ofvariable pitch but equalization for similar strokes is accomplishedthrough the relative lengths of pitmans and 13 and through the shiftingof the stroke-transmitting link to the upward position wheresubstantially minimum oscillation of depending mounting or bracket isaccomplished.

When the pivoted rear portion of stroke-transmitting link 16 is shifteddownwardly to the predetermined limit, a relatively longer stroke istransmitted to the inner or right feed-bar 8 from the oscillating orreciprocating Y depending mounting bracket 20, the radial distance fromthe bracket journal pin 21 to the axis of pivot pin 22 beingsubstantially longer than in the normal positioning of the parts asshown in Fig. 2.

The feed-dogs D-1 and D-2 are then, at the beginning of their cycles ofoperations, spaced apart as shown in Fig. 4, while, at the conclusion ofthe feeding strokes, they are spaced closely together as showndiagrammatically in Fig. 5 and the forward feed-dogs D-l have moved alonger stroke than dogs D-Z, thereby bringing up, folding and shirringthe material effected by the presser foot.

It is often desirable in stitching together two pieces of material toform a juncture, that only one ply or piece of material be shirred. Inthis connection, one of the pieces of material is superimposed over thepressure foot and is not affected by shirring operation, whereas theunder-piece of material is applied beneath the presser foot. The extentof the shirring, more specifically the width of the folds, may be variedwithin a considerable range by adjustment of the stroke-limiting nut atthe upper end of shift rod 25.

From the foregoing description, it will be seen that one embodiment ofmy invention may be readily constructed as an attachment for thestandard Singer models identified herein by replacement of the revisedand novel pitman link 13 for the standard link supplied and by additionof a few new parts combinatively related to the conventional structureand which include the toggle link 16 with its shiftable pivotalconnection at the rear portion thereof, the reciprocating, dependingmounting or bracket 20, the shift rod 25 and its related guidingmechanism and operating connections.

In Fig. 6 a fragment of one type of the work is illustrated where twopieces of cloth are joined together along a circumferential edge withone of the pieces shirred in part and the other piece unshirred as isoften the case in the manufacture of garments.

It will be seen that, in the form of standard construction for acomplete sewing machine or as an attachment to models 246-3 and 246-5 ofthe sewing machines made by The Singer Manufacturing Company, myinvention provides a comparatively simple but highly efficient piece ofapparatus for instantly producing a shirring action of the materialduring stitching operations and for controlling the shifting to shirr atwill and to the extent desired.

It will, of course, be understood that various changes may be made inthe form, details, arrangement and proportions of the parts withoutdeparting from the scope of my invention.

What I claim is:

1. In a sewing machine, cloth-feeding mechanism for producing shirringof material as desired while stitching, having in combination a pair ofsubstantially horizontal, gyratory feed-bars disposed in side-by-siderelation and each having upstanding feed dogs thereon, the feed dogs ofone bar being disposed forwardly of the feed dogs of the other bar, apitman link for each of said bars, driven eccentric elements upon whichthe forward ends of said respective pitman links are journaled, one ofsaid'pitman links having a pivotal connection between its rear portionand the lower, intermediate portion of one of said feed bars, aswingable, stroke-transmitting mounting, a connection between the secondpitman link and said mount- 1 ing for reciprocating said mounting, astroke-transmitting link having an end pivotally connected with saidsecond gyratory feed bar and having its other end shiftably connectedwith said mounting for shifting to a position adjacent the said pitmanconnection with said mounting to impart a relatively short stroke to itsrelated feeding bar and for shifting to a position removed some distancefrom said pitman connection to impart a relatively longer stroke to itsrelated feed bar.

In a sewing machine, cloth-feeding mechanism for producing shirring ofmaterial as desired while stitching, having in combination a pair ofsubstantially horizontal, gyratory feed-bars disposed in side by siderelation and each having upstanding feed dogs thereon, the feed dogs ofone bar being disposed forwardly of the feed dogs of the other bar, apitman link for each of said bars, driven eccentric elements upon whichthe forward ends of said respective pitman links are journaled, one ofsaid pitman links having a direct connection between its rear portionand the intermediate portion of one of said feed bars, a swingablestroke-transmitting mounting mounted rearwardly of said pitman links forreciprocating on an axis disposed transversely of said pitman links, aconnection between the rear portion of the other pitman link and saidmounting for reciprocating said mounting and a stroke-transmitting linkhaving a forward end pivotally connected with said second gyratory feedbar and having its rear portion shiftably connected with said mountingfor shifting to a position adjacent said axis of said mounting and forshifting to a position removed some distance from said axis and meansfor instantly shifting said connection of said link from one of saidpositions to the other on said reciprocating mounting.

3. In a sewing machine, a cloth-feeding mechanism for producing shirringof material as desired while stitching, having in combination a pair ofsubstantially horizontal, gyratory feed-bars disposed in side-by-siderelation and each having upstanding feed dogs thereon, the.

feed dogs of one bar being disposed forwardly of the feed dogs of theother bar, a pitman link for each of said bars, driven eccentricelements upon which the forward ends of said respective pitman links arejournaled, one of said pitman links having a direct connection betweenits rear portion and the intermediate portion of one of said feed bars,a swingable stroke-transmitting mounting mounted rearwardly of saidpitman links for reciprocating on an axis disposed transversely of saidpitman links, a toggle link connecting the rear portion of said otherpitman with said mounting for reciprocating the same, astroke-transmitting link having a forward end pivotally connected withsaid second gyratory feed bar and having its rear portion shiftablyconnected with said mounting for positioning adjacent the point ofconnection of said toggle link and also for positioning and connectionwith said mounting at a point removed some distance from the axis ofsaid mounting and from the point of connection of said toggle link withsaid mounting and means for instantly shifting said stroke-transmittinglink from one of said positions to the other.

4. The structure set forth in claim 3 wherein said mounting is pivotedat its upper end and extends downwardly at the rear of said pitman linksand wherein said mounting has a longitudinal slot extending generallytransversely of the longitudinal center line of the second of saidpitrnan links and wherein said stroke-transmitting link is connected atits rear portion with the slotted portion of said mounting.

5. In a sewing machine, cloth-feeding mechanism for producing shirringof material as desired while stitching, having in combination a pair ofsubstantially horizontal, gyratory feed-bars disposed in side-by-siderelation and each having upstanding feed dogs thereon, the feed dogs ofone bar being disposed forwardly of the feed dogs of the other bar, apitman link for each of said bars, driven eccentric elements upon whichthe forward ends of said respective pitrnan links are journaled, one ofsaid pitman links having a pivotal connection between its rear portionand the lower, intermediate portion of one of said feedbars, aswingable, stroke-transmitting mounting, a connection between the secondpitrnan link and said mounting for reciprocating said mounting, astroke-transmitting link having an end pivotally connected with saidsecond gyratory feed-bar and having its other end shiftably connectedwith said mounting for shifting to a position adjacent the said pitmanconnection with said mounting to impart a relatively short stroke to itsrelated feeding bar and for shifting to a position removed some distancefrom said pitrnan connection to impart a relatively longer stroke to itsrelated feed-bar, and instantly controllable shifting mechanismcomprising a longitudinally movable shift rod having a connectionadjacent one end thereof with said stroke-transmitting link, a guide forsaid rod, yieldable means for urging said rod to its limit of movementin one direction whereby said link will be disposed in its firstmentioned position to impart a shorter stroke, and a pull connectionwith said rod to instantly shift the same to a limit of movement in theopposite direction for shifting said link to said second mentionedposition for imparting a longer stroke to its related feed-bar.

6. The structure set forth in claim 5 and an adjustable abutment elementmounted on said shift rod for limiting the shifting movement of said rodfor imparting longer strokes to the related feed-bar.

cluding an upstanding housing and an upstanding pedestal laterallyspaced from said housing, a rotary shaft journallecl within said housingand extending into the open space between said housing and saidpedestal, a plurality of eccentrics carried by said rotary shaft, a pincarried by said pedestal and extending into said open space, a pair ofgyratory feed-bars disposed within said open space with each feed-barhaving its forward end connected with an eccentric and with its rearendsupported upon said pin, an oscillatory bracket pivotally mounted atits upper end upon said pin so as to depend into said open space, meansconnecting a first of said feed-bars with one of said eccentrics therebyto reciprocate such feed-bar, means connecting one of said eccentricswith said bracket thereby to oscillate the latter about the axis of saidpin, means connecting said bracket with the second of said feed-bars forreciprocating such feedbar, and means to effect a relative shift betweenthe two bracket connections thereby to vary the amplitude ofreciprocation of said second feed-bar.

8. An overedge sewing machine having a frame including an upstandinghousing and an upstanding pedestal laterally spaced from said housing, arotary shaft journalled within said housing and extending into the openspace between said housing and said pedestal, a plurality of eccentricscarried by said rotary shaft, a pin carried by said pedestal andextending into said open space, a pair of gyratory feed-bars disposedwithin said open space with each feedbar having its forward endconnected with an eccentric and with its rear end supported upon saidpin, an oscillatory bracket pivotally mounted at its upper end upon saidpin so as to depend into said open space, a pitman connecting a first ofsaid feed-bars with one of said eccentrics thereby to reciprocates suchfeed-bar, a second pitman connecting one of said eccentrics with saidbracket thereby to oscillate the latter about the axis of said pin, linkmeans connecting,

said bracket with the second of said feed-bars for reciprocating suchfeed-bar, and manually operable means to effect a relative shift betweenthe two bracket connections thereby to vary the amplitude ofreciprocation V of said second feed-bar.

I References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS1,071,818 Stedman Sept. 2, 1913 1,147,047 Seymour July 20, 19151,326,026 Chalman Dec. 23, 1919 2,341,448 Knaus Feb. 8, 1944 I

